John Henry was just 18 when he arrived here from Ireland in 1935. He was a young lad in his 20's when he started the Mount Vernon Pub on the site of the Somerville Meat Company. Henry led his family through the Great Depression and went on to expand and build the Mount Vernon Restaurant into the landmark that it is today.

There's an old saying "Somerville begins at the Mount Vernon Restaurant." The Mount Vernon is real Somerville, and just like Somerville, it has many different faces. There is the pub with 14 draft beers on tap and central bar with plenty of booths on either side of the room. There is the front room with upscale natural wood, as well as a fireplace. There is the back room with more tables and a laid back atmosphere. Then there are function rooms that range from large to intimate. There are also the folks who work at the Mount Vernon, and a lot of them have been there for years. Say hello to waitresses Judy and Teri, Steve the bartender, and Jeanne the hostess.

The menu still reflects John Henry's style of a good, old-fashioned tavern that serves an eclectic selection that is based on years of success with local palates. Overall, the food is hearty, delicious, and ranges from plain to intricate.

Start with cocktails, wine, beer, or appetizers, and you will see that you are being taken care of in a nice way. The cocktails are served in a pony glass sitting in a bowl of ice with your empty cocktail glass on the side. The wine selection is succinct, but good of quality. You will have your choice of very decent whites and reds. I was particularly pleased with the Ruffino Chianti, which is always one of my favorites.

The main menu consists of lamb chops, pork chops, chicken and turkey, with a special concentration on fine beef: sirloins, filets, London broil, steak tips, and large slabs of prime ribs. The steaks come in large portions and you can choose choice or prime sirloin. The steaks are cooked to order and are very nicely done with that addictive char broil flavor.

The Mount Vernon has always had lobster. They are able to buy the lobsters directly from the boats. You can get them boiled, baked stuffed, casseroled, and in a cold salad. Their Twin Lobster Special is famous. You will not find a better deal anywhere unless you are up for a three hour drive in a northerly direction.

Along with the lobster, the seafood menu is full and varied, including scallops, haddock, schrod, salmon, shrimp, and fried clams. You might want to try their version of surf and surf called Salmon Rockefeller: baked salmon topped with lobster meat, spinach, and hollandaise sauce.

The sliced Roast Beef Sandwich has been famous since 1935. Kelly's eat your heart out!

We were knocked out by the Mount Vernon Chicken Saute: fresh sauteed chicken with spinach, chopped tomatoes and mozzarella cheese served over rigatoni stuffed with feta cheese, spinach and artichoke hearts all done in a light garlic and butter sauce. We were taken from the sublime to the fantastic with this dish.

John Henry died in 1998, but his family continues to keep the range fires burning brightly in his honor. His son, Marty, started working at the Mount Vernon when he was 14 years old, and he is still working there today and holding court to all the many friends he has made. Marty's son Brett, is now the managing force and you will find him on duty moving room from room on any given day or night.

Somewhere up above, the spirit of John Henry is watching over the Mount Vernon. Many of us who were privileged enough to know him can remember him playing host to numerous occasions and charity events in and around Somerville.

The Henry family has given back to the Somerville community in many ways and they continue to be a strong and supportive force in this city. John Henry's kind ways, smiling eyes, and he, with a bit of brogue, will be remembered for many years to come.

by Ross E. Blouin, as featured in
The Somerville News